In 2006 my parents and I embarked on a cruise that took us from Santiago, Chile to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. On this trip I discovered the Lake District and the Patagonia regions of Chile for the first time. These regions "stuck" with me all these years - so much so I wanted to go back and experience it again. Fast forward to 2025... this time I sailed the region via an exploration style cruise - starting in Ushuaia, ending in Punta Arenas with only one other port call - Punta Natales, the entrance to Torres del Paine Park. Everything in between - sailing through beautiful fjords and getting off the ship via zodiak. No other cruise ships in sight, the 170 guests and guides onboard the only people in the areas we "played" in. Glorious. Absolutely glorious (although many of us were commenting that even 170 was too many people!). To understand and feel a place you must go and discover it yourself. However, pictures can provide inspiration for possibilities. I trust this photo story is a good start. Enjoy!
Voyage Map
On most mornings we had gentle wake up calls courtesy of our expedition leader Jake. David Gray's Sail Away, Lion King, the Beatles' Here Comes the Sun and Coldplay's When She Was Just a Girl among the few. After all you don't want to sleep away the morning. Way too many things to see, discover, explore!
Day 2: Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
Cape Horn is located at the southern end of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. I marks the north edge of the Drake Passage, the strait between South America and Antarctica. The waters here are notorious - strong winds, large waves, strong currents and even some icebergs. We had hoped the weather would cooperate with us for a landing on the island - the lighthouse and albatross memorial were waiting for us! We had beautiful blue skies but high winds and waves thwarted any thought of a landing. So close! But it was not going to happen. Instead, we sailed around this southernmost point of South America. I remember seeing it the last time from quite a distance - this time we were close enough to see the lighthouse, the famous albatross monument and (huge) waves crashing ashore.
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Day 3: Glacier Alley, Pia Glacier and helicopter ride
Situated within the protected boundary of Alberto de Agostini National Park, Pia Glacier sits at the head of a picturesque, often ice-choked fjord that offers jaw-dropping views. Located within the Cordillera Darwin (Darwin Mountain Range), the impressive Pia Glacier extends from the soaring mountaintops down into the sea. A glorious day allowed for a short hike to a lookout point with superb vistas of the glacier and mountains, a longer more strenuous hike to the the top of the hill (walking through streams, using ropes on some portions of the trail and ending with climbing rocks to the peak) and our included helicopter ride that gave us amazing views of the glacier from above.
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Day 4: Aguila Glacier, Agostini Fjord and Smith Channel
Located at the end of a tranquil lagoon surrounded by lush sub-Antarctic forests in Agostini Sound, Dainelli Glacier (sometimes called Aguila –Spanish for “Eagle” Glacier) is a unique sight, as it appears to flow over rolling hills rather than mountains. This experience - what a privilege to be here. So few people get to see this glacier up close like this. We got to taste the wild berries and on the return, one of the guides Marco, took us into the forest. Bushwacked our way out! Too much fun.
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Day 5: Bernal Glacier, Kawésqar National Park and Canal Kirke
Our morning excursion was a quick two hour outing to Bernal Glacier - the southern tip of the Chilean Andes ice cap. This wasn't planned originally but we had time before we had to get to to Canal Kirke. So our expedition leaders made it happen. Later in afternoon we made it up the Canal (bottom picture). You can't just pass through it. Very narrow, one must wait for the tides to be just right. Zodiaks were at the pass with instruments measuring the tide and currents. We finally made it through - followed a local ferry! The Kirke Pass was first navigated by the Kawésqar people from approximately 6,000 years ago until the end of the 20thcentury. It is six nautical miles long and begins in the west at Boca Point and ends with Entrada Point. It is named for one of the officers of the HMS Beagle (1826-35) and was carrying out hydrographic surveys in the area.
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Day 6: Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales, population 21,477 (2017 census) is a city in the province of Última Esperanza in the Magallanes Region. It is the only city in the province and is located 247km (153mi) northwest of Punta Arenas. The area was originally inhabited by the Kawésqaror Alacaluf people and first visited by Europeans in 1557. The province was named Última Esperanza (Last Hope) by sailor Juan Ladrilleros, who was seeking the Strait of Magellan in 1557. It was his “last hope” to find the Strait after exploring the maze of channels between the Pacific and the mainland. It is also the gateway city to Torres del Paine National Park.
We had not planned on being in Puerto Natales an extra day, however due to high winds (80+ knot wind gusts) we had to navigate the Canal Kirke a day earlier than planned. Spent the afternoon exploring the town and walked back to the ship. Dogs run freely here and one even followed us all the way back to the ship!
We had not planned on being in Puerto Natales an extra day, however due to high winds (80+ knot wind gusts) we had to navigate the Canal Kirke a day earlier than planned. Spent the afternoon exploring the town and walked back to the ship. Dogs run freely here and one even followed us all the way back to the ship!
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Day 7: Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine Park is a national park and UNESCO Biosphere in Chile's Patagonia region. It is well known as a place for great hiking, beautiful landscapes, glacial blue lakes, the Los Cuernos mountain peaks and wind. Lots of wind! I went on an all day photography tour where we had opportunities to see rheas, guanacos, rivers, lakes and yes, los Cuernos, aka the horns. Nice day, although weather wasn't 100% cooperative. And take note if you go - the roads are all gravel - quite bumpy is an understatement. We didn't get to see puma, though there are a good number living in the park.
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Day 8: Estancia Rio Penitente
Our third day in Puerto Natales took us in to the interior (about a 2 hour drive) for an authentic estancia (ranch) visit. The owners are 4th generation, direct descendants of Scottish farmers who came over when Chile offered free land to farmers. While they have added tourism as an income source, they largely raise/export lamb and wool products.
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Day 9: Kirke Pass, Canal White and helicopter ride
We made it through Canal Kirke in the morning - much quicker than going through the first time (weather was in our favor). Those of us who were fortunate enough to sign up for an extra heli ride got a real treat this afternoon. We took about a 10 minute ride from the ship to an area on top of a hill, that best guess few (possibly no) humans had ever been. Pristine area with amazing views of the fjords below. Another one of these pinch me moments - so fortunate to have this opportunity that so few people in the world get to experience.
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Day 10: Strait of Magellan and Islotes Tucker
Islotes Tucker is a series of small islands and rocky outcrops in Almirantazgo Sound, a fjord off the Strait of Magellan. The islets are home to Magellanic penguins and are named for Ferdinand Magellan, who sighted them in 1520 during the first circumnavigation of the globe. The area is also home to Chilean skuas, Magellanic cormorants, imperial cormorants, oystercatchers, kelp geese and dolphins. It was a bit rainy today which brought out all the waterfalls - they were everywhere! Later afternoon had us exploring the area by zodiak. I got to see my Magellenic penguin! More wildlife can be seen earlier in the season - most wildlife had already migrated during our visit.
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Day 11: Ainsworth Bay
Bahia Ainsworthis located on the north-west end of the Marinelli Fjord. This area is surrounded by untouched sub-Antarctic forest and is within the protected area of Alberto de Agostini National Park. Bahia Ainsworth also offers breathtaking views of Marinelli Glacier and is home to an abundance of bird life. Here we landed on a beach and had a n easy hiking option that took us bast beaver dams and into the forest. Peaceful.
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Day 12: Fiordo Parry
Fiordo Parry is one of the most picturesque and rugged fjords in Tierra del Fuego. It provides a glacial amphitheater at its southern end and features elevations between 1000 -2000 m (3280 –6562 ft). The highest peak in the fjord is Mount Shipton, which stands at 2568 m (8425 ft). In the AM I had my paddling excursion - a bit challenging with the currents but nonetheless fun. In the afternoon we explored deep into the fjord. We were on the zodiak for almost 5 miles before we arrived at our landing spot. From here we walked a trail (which wasn't really a trail - more light bushwacking, making your way through bushes, trees and small streams) that ended at a beautiful glacier. Well worth the effort.
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Day 13: Bahia del Aguila
Our last excursion took us this lighthouse in the morning. The area was entirely shrouded in fog so hard to see much (apparently very common here). The lighthouse still works and the current owner is trying to make it into a museum. It currently houses an entire skeleton of a humpback whale, plus photos and replicas of indigenous canoes and tools. The kayakers went out this morning - cold and damp but they did get to see quite a few sea lions.
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Interested in a exploration style cruise? They are amazing experiences. So very different from classic cruising. Connect with me HERE - I'd be happy to chat with you to make sure this is the right experience for you.
