A Unique Cruise Experience in the Marquesas Islands

Photo credit: Hiva Oa Tahiti Tourism

I was first “introduced” to the Marquesas Islands back in 2002—courtesy of one of the earliest seasons of Survivor. I use the word introduced lightly. It was television, after all, and reality TV at that. Still, those dramatic landscapes—raw, wild, and impossibly beautiful—left a lasting impression. Even then, I knew this was a place unlike anywhere else in the South Pacific.

The Marquesas are part of French Polynesia, but in nearly every meaningful way, they stand apart from the more familiar islands of Tahiti. Located more than 900 miles from Papeete (nearly four hours by air), the Marquesas remain remarkably untouched. They’re often described as Hawaii 100 years ago—rugged, remote, and refreshingly unpolished. That isolation has preserved a distinct language, culture, and identity. While politically part of Tahiti, the people here are not Tahitians. They are proudly Marquesan 

This sense of difference has long drawn creatives and adventurers. Herman Melville, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Jack London all spent time here. Paul Gauguin chose Hiva Oa as his final resting place. Even the modern word tattoo traces its roots back to the Marquesas, where intricate body art remains a powerful expression of identity. Men and women alike wear their tattoos with pride—and with purpose. And just like that, the intrigue deepens.

My own exploration of French Polynesia took place aboard the Paul Gauguin, a cruise I would happily repeat. Windstar and Silversea Cruises also sail the region year-round. They all primarily explore the Society Islands, with extended itineraries a few times each year reaching the Marquesas, Fiji, and other far-flung archipelagos. They are excellent choices, and the right fit depends on your travel style—something a knowledgeable travel advisor can help match perfectly.​

But today, the focus is on something entirely different. Something rarer. More immersive.
Enter the L'Aranui 5 (and in 2027 the L'Aranoa).

The Aranui 5 is not your typical cruise ship. It’s part passenger vessel, part working freighter—a description that’s often summed up as “business in the front, party in the back.” And somehow, it works beautifully.

Approximately 20 times a year, the Aranui 5 sails round-trip from Papeete to the Marquesas, carrying vital freight along with its passengers. Along the way, it stops in the Tuamotu Islands en route to the Marquesas, visiting major islands such as Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Tahuata, and Fatu Hiva, with Bora Bora appearing on the return. The company has also expanded into discovery itineraries to the Austral, Society, Pitcairn, and Gambier Islands—these sailings operate without freight but retain the same spirit of exploration.

The ship delivers essential supplies to the islands—everything from food and building materials to vehicles—and returns to Tahiti carrying local products. The primary export is copra, dried coconut meat used to produce oil, with the remaining byproduct repurposed as animal feed. It’s a working lifeline for these remote communities.

I’ll admit, being part freighter gave me pause at first. Cabins? Dining? Excursions? No worries. The Aranui 5 surprises in the best possible way. Cabins are comfortable and well-appointed. Onboard amenities include a casual main restaurant, lounge, library, conference rooms, three bars, a pool, small gym, spa—and even the world’s first tattoo studio at sea.

All photos courtesy of Aranui 5

What truly elevates the experience, though, is what’s included: three meals daily, lunches ashore at local restaurants, guided excursions to remote villages and archaeological sites, cultural dance performances, and expert guest lecturers. For those craving extra adventure—think 4×4 drives or private tours—optional excursions can be arranged onboard. Entertainment is intentionally low-key, encouraging guests to lean into the destination rather than distractions.
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Add to that limited connectivity—no cell service and only spotty internet—and you have the perfect environment for a true digital detox.

So what’s the number one thing guests rave about?

The people.

Specifically, the chance to share a beer, a laugh, and real conversation with the Marquesan crew. These aren’t rehearsed interactions or curated moments—they’re genuine connections, and they’re unforgettable.
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The Aranui 5 is a rare kind of journey. A small-ship experience that leaves the ordinary—and the crowds—far behind, offering instead authenticity, access, and adventure in one of the South Pacific’s most compelling destinations.

Call (602.540.7338) or email me if you are interested in learning more

Photo Credit: Aranui Cruises and Hiva Oa Tahiti Tourism.  This original article was written in 2022.  It has been updated and refreshed with the assistance of ChatGPT.