My Journey to Antarctica

I recently made it to my 7th continent, Antarctica – a destination that has been on my “must experience” list for over 30 years.  I knew it would be exciting, mind boggling, full of surprises - this trip did not disappoint.  

The weather gods were definitely in our favor.  The famous Drake Passage was quite mild - 10-to-12-foot swells on the way down and maybe 5 foot swells on the return.  I barely noticed.  The crew, though, told us this was unusual – most voyages have the Drake shake experience (swells over 25 feet).  Once you get to the peninsula it’s smooth sailing.

Temperatures hovered right around 32 degrees Fahrenheit.  We experienced brilliant sunshine, marine fog, cloudy skies and snow flurries - a perfect all-around Antarctica experience.

Four full days were spent on the Antarctica peninsula where we saw hundreds of icebergs, massive glaciers, humpback whales, a variety of penguins and seals and a good bit of bird life (beyond the penguins).   Fin whales and albatross were seen during the Drake crossing.  No Orcas this time around but they are in the area.  

Two activities off the ship each day had us exploring the surrounds - on land to see penguin colonies and on zodiac tours to find wildlife and experience icebergs up close.  We were all treated to a 10–15 minute helicopter ride to see the continent from above – there are not enough words to describe the sheer beauty of this area.  Many of us purchased paddling, kayaking, standup paddle boarding or heli-hiking programs to see Antarctica from a different vantage point – these too are highly recommended.  

This journey is full of amazing scenery and wildlife – exactly what I came to experience – each and every one a highlight in its own right.  Everywhere you turned there was sheer beauty.  

Seeing penguins was #1 on my list and I was awarded with thousands, maybe millions (aka a lot!) of gentoo, chinstrap and Adélie. They nest on dry, rocky land, which means they have to climb above the snow – quite a hike up hill for the birds (and humans too)! The snow is too cold for eggs to hatch, and because of regular glacier calving, shore areas are subject to high wave action – thus up the hills they go. 

We observed penguin parents going to/from the sea to catch dinner along the “penguin highways”, parents feeding chicks, parents resting, chicks fighting (or playing), chicks being chicks…. Many of my fellow guests agreed that we could watch these birds all day. Too much fun.   In about a months time all the chicks will lose their baby feathers and gain their adult feathers, preparing them for their life at sea.

I was told that you would know penguins are around before you see them and this is quite true.  I didn’t find the smell offensive in the least bit.  We all got used it to quickly.  Maybe it wasn't "peak" season.  

On the water, zodiac tours were another special treat and gave us a very different perspective of the region.  The scale of the massive icebergs and glaciers were impressive.  Being able to see the variations of ice up close is something so few get to do.  The adventure of zipping between the icebergs searching for wildlife was also fun.  It helped that fellow guides would let everyone know when something special was spotted. Warning though – this activity can get quite cold.  Waterproof pants, warm parkas, gloves and hats are a non-negotiable.

We saw Weddell seals and several leopard seals (also high on my list to see) resting on icebergs.  We were entertained by one cheeky leopard seal in the water who was as curious about us and we were of him (or her), darting between the zodiacs to look at us.  Another occasion had rafts of penguins coming at us from all directions. They move fast!  On our last zodiac outing we were literally surrounded by humpback whales, waving their tales as if to say hello and goodbye at the same time.  

Sea kayaking, paddling and standup paddle boards provided a spectacular perspective that really touched the soul.  Away from the sounds of the zodiac, you hear ice cracking, the thunderous calving of glaciers, see whales spouting and hear them get excited about catching their meals (krill).  There is no other place in the world where you can have this type of experience. 

There are a number of brands that offer great Antarctica experiences.   One must do their due diligence to find the right match. 

I chose to explore this region with Quark Expeditions – the perfect choice for me.  Top reasons included their new purpose-built ship (Ultramarine), the helicopter, cabin sharing options (awesome roommate and saves money) and being the polar specialists (polar is all Quark does). 

The Ultramarine is a beautiful ship, well laid out with plenty of amenities (including a spa, sauna, a small gym and yoga area and 2 dining areas).  The ship holds a max of 199 guests.  Cabins are spacious (nice bathrooms, plenty of closet space and drawers) with plenty of cabin categories to choose from.  I had a balcony cabin and loved the ability to get pictures outside quickly. The room stewards were excellent– friendly, professional, efficient, always happy and smiling (Alrich was special!)

Meals were very good – buffet style breakfast and lunch (both with made to order stations) and 4 course dinners with beer and wine included.  The dining staff was also excellent and attentive.  Coffee, tea, cookies and cake were available at all times in the Panorama lounge.

Most evenings we had a recap of the day’s experiences and we got a preview of what to expect the following day.  The educational talks from the expedition staff were informative and interesting.

The expedition staff on board this sailing was exceptional and an area where I believe Quark truly excels.  Not including the 3 helicopter pilots and engineer, we had 31 expedition staff on board, all of whom were fun, talented experts in a variety of fields – birds, ocean mammals, glaciers, mountaineering, kayaking.  It was impressive to hear how many years most of them had been working with Quark Expeditions.  They worked together like a well-oiled machine – needed in an unforgiving place like Antarctica.  The guide staff joined us for meals – a pleasant surprise and definitely a highlight. 

169 guests were on board from 20 different countries.  Approximately half were retirees, the other half under 55 with a good number between late 20s-40s.  A great mix of guests, all fascinated by this beautiful continent.  

Certain trips are simply life changing.  Antarctica, indeed, is a place where once experienced, it becomes a permanent part of your soul.
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And a place I hope to experience again.

Note: With the exception of the whale tail, all photos were taken by me.  Nigel from New Zealand shared is whale tail photo.  

Laurie specializes in small ship cruising.  To learn more about this trip or to get started on your own adventure, call 602.540.7338 or connect with me here.